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The Extraordinary Life of Martha Gellhorn, the Woman Ernest Hemingway Tried to Erase
One sultry morning last June, I hired a car to take me from beautifully ruinous Old Havana, through ravaged parts of the city most tourists never see, to the nearby village of San Francisco de Paula, a dusty speck of a place that was once home to Cuba’s most famous American expat, Ernest Hemingway.
Having painted him into two historical novels and become an accidental aficionado of his life, I have made it a point to visit all of Hemingway’s residences—from Oak Park to Paris, from Key West to Ketchum—but this time I actually came looking for someone else: his third wife, Martha Gellhorn.
It was she who found the 19th-century estate Finca Vigía (Watchtower Farm) in the want ads of a local paper in 1939, and she who undertook extensive renovations, at her own expense.
Martha Gellhorn and Ernest Hemingway on a beach in Hawaii; the tower of Finca Vigía, their home in Cuba.
The couple had